Tickling powerglides

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Tickling powerglides


Post by vkk » Sat Jan 24, 2009 2:03 pm

Would anyone know a solution for the problem I am having with the new hydraulic units (Jim's powerglides) on my '65 Pan
After approx 50 miles riding at 60/hr (outside temp 70-80F) these units start ticking when oil (Quaker State SAE50) is warm (but I guess this is already before since oil lamp shows this)
Oil pump is original type and flow is more than sufficient according to my HD dealer. Even they don't know how to go on
I am thinking about trying SAE60 or should I try 20W50 as I have read on this forum?
I know this subject has been on-going but I can't figure out what I can or shouldn't do.
any help would be greatly appriciated!!


Post by Panhead

Have you adjusted the tappets yourself after installing and if so how many turns clearance?

Post by mbskeam

try this...
run the push rod loose, then you turn it to just take up the slack, mark it ,and count the number of turns till it fully bottoms out, then back off 1/2 the amount you have from just touching to fully bottomed out...

20 turns =10 back....,or 18 turns=9 back....etc
this should put it right in the middle of the lifter hydraulic travel


Post by billy

I agree w/Mbskeam-

Most hydraulic lifters have a .250 total cushion, you want to be in the middle of this ...aka .125 in, that will be determined by the TPI = Threads Per Inch on yer pushrods..

Post by pan65

Hi there,

I had the same problem with my 65 pan. What I did to make it work, is that I had the oil channels redrilled and som passages restricted and blocked so that it gives priority to the top end. I use the -68 up aluminium pump. The oil pressure now is about 60 - 80 psi cold engine and between 20 - 40 psi hot. During the spring and autumn I have straight 50 oil in and in the summer season when it gets hot I mix two 50 with one straight 70. And it works great. I let it warm up carefully before I put some load to it because of the thickness of the oil.
Other things to look for, is there too much freeplay between the lifterhouses and the lifters? Was there hydraulics in it before? What cam do you run?

hope this will be of a little help.

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Re: Tickling powerglides


Post by socalrider » Tue Jan 15, 2013 5:44 am

Having the exact same issue with my 65 with Jim's power glide lifters installed. It seems as though they collapse once the oil is thoroughly warmed up which for me is at about 25 miles of highway riding at about 60-70 mph. I'm going to try what Mbskeam suggests and hope it solves the problem.seems I read a past post where these type lifters were said to be notorious for collapsing.i wonder if changing over to a j cam has anything to do with it. The lifters seemed to work fine with the stock h cam. If the adjustment that Mbskeam suggests does not solve the problem, I think I'm going back to Oem type hydraulic lifters. Based on the information ive gotten on this great forum,a j cam should work fine with hydraulic lifters.

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Re: Tickling powerglides


Post by 58flh » Tue Jan 15, 2013 1:16 pm

Arnulfo!--Do as MBSKEAM said & run the st.60,you should be good!--Jims Big axle usually have HYD. pump-up issues!-They can be over come by the said recipe!.But the Powerglides are standrd axle?-correct if Im wrong!--But If your having problems as you described--then MBSKEAMS way of ADJ. WORKS!-I have done it on a few bikes even stock pumpers!-(KEEP your COUNT!)---Richie 8)

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Re: Tickling powerglides


Post by 58flh » Fri Jan 18, 2013 2:36 pm

POWERGLIDE!----Hello Fellers,---I have found that anytime you put aftermarket guides in -(even stock ones)-You should always DRY-HUMP ALL mating parts!.--On original guides I have found olny 2-5 that the tiny oil-holes did not line-up PERFECTLY!, These were from another motor -but stock .-(thats an X-cellent track record!).-As for aftermarket Lifter guides!--I automatically open the holes in the guides 1/64--(by hand using a reamer,a bit works good to if you dont have a reamer that small!).NEVER had to to 1/32 over except on VT-products!.-Remember that feedhole is smalll!-& any obstruction means less VOLUME will be getting to your HYDs.Lifters!-(EX.---Picture that tiny hole covered a quarter of its size !)-usually to machining errorr!. Dont seem like much ,but when dealing with HYD.lifters you want all the VOLUME getting to em!.-So when installing check that hole for a PRECISE LINE-UP!.--Even .005 is to much of an obstruction!. The idea is to make them perfect!-(A stock-pump is plenty good for HYD. Lifters!)--You dont have to open the case-holes-up!, I have done it & found it useless for a stock 74!. I went a 1/32 over in the case & matched the lifter GUIDES PERFECTLY!.---I found out it worked ,there was no problems ,BUT THE PROBLEM is the GUIDES themselves!.---Also I know the P-GLIDES work great with ANDREWS-J cam!. MBSKEAM said the way to ADJ. them!---COLD MOTOR!--ADJ. for no up/down movement of P-rod--Then Mark the ROD with a fine-point sharpie & count the turns until you bottom out the lifter!-(dont rely on sight memory when counting -turns!).& Like he said if its 20-Then count 10 back & loc-it!,--if its 15, then 7& a half back ETC.--Be -absolutely sure your on the bottom of the cam when ADJ. USE 60wt. oil & there should be no problems!--Also make-sure the witches-hat is clean & installed properly!. If you find that 1-is still ticking, give it another HALF-TURN!--Your Idle should be set to 900 to 1000RPMs. For me 1000RPM is a little high, but thats just my personal preference!-(besides I run solids).--A cooler is always good!--The hotter the oil gets the easier it (thinner)it runs!. Also Timing plays a role in operating temps to!-(ADV. to much it runs hotter, if to RET. its hot!)-Timing must be spot-on!---Hope this helps anybody who is getting to that point!--Key here is VOLUME of oil reaching the critical areas!,& not PRESSURE!---RICHIE 8)

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