What pushrod seals NOT to use.

Forum rules
Please do not start new topics here, but here: New Panhead and Flathead topics
Post Reply
Posts: 118
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 1:08 am
Bikes: 65 Panhead in a 70 FLH frame
Location: Northeast PA, USA

What pushrod seals NOT to use.


Post by lockdoc » Fri Jul 20, 2007 1:43 pm

Description: The silicone gets extremely soft and slides right up.

Post by lockdoc on Apr 29, 2007, 2:25am

Just figured I'd throw this out there if anybody but me didn't know. While installing new pushrods, tappet guides, etc., I installed a new set of blue silicone pushrod seals. VERY bad product. As soon as the engine warmed up oil started to spurt from the lower seals. As I lifted the covers to see what was up I noticed the seals were IN the tube. The silicone gets extremely soft and slides right up. Needless to say I was pissed.
On the bottom of this page are the ones I used.

http://www.jpcycles.com/catalog/2007Har ... /0571.html

Post by Skip on Apr 30, 2007, 2:53pm


Post by fourthgear on Apr 30, 2007, 5:11pm

I replaced my cork seals with the same ones you show and they work fine on mine . The reason I changed them is because I had an oil leak on my top intake push rod tube and that sucker was a hard one to find until I re adj. my push rods the last time and the small leak turned into a big one that strangely enough did not leak much oil on the gear case side of the motor ,but did wrap around the front of the motor and look like I had a pan cover leaking on the front cyl.. The reason I used the blue ones is ,I was out of corks and the one that was leaking was like a piece of card board and of course couldn't use it again ( have my 65 apart and the blue ones were there to use , so I did and no leaks yet , have about 1200 miles since changing them . This is partly ( all ) my fault because of how many times I pulled the tubes off to adj. my solid lifters with out changing the cork seals , I normally change them every other adjustment because I know the cork seals have a tendency to harden up with time and that would be OK if they were not solids that have to disturbed for adj. , hyd. would not have to be played with. Maybe there are diff. manufacturers or you got a bad set . I know a lot of people who use them and not have problems, hard to tell . There are other types out there and I think they are better in some ways than cork.

Post by caschnd1 on Apr 30, 2007, 11:28pm

I use 3 different types of seals. I use cork at the top where the tube meets the head. The blue silicone seals could not take the heat here and cork works great. I use the blue slicone seals in the middle of the pushrod tube. I use o-rings at the base of the pushrod tubes. I use o-rings here because I have Evo-type lifter blocks and they are designed for o-rings.


Post by lockdoc on May 1, 2007, 2:42am

I don't know what the problem was but they were definitely "mushy" and I have spankin' new tappet guides that have nice surfaces. In order to take it's maiden ride I had to dig in the garbage for the old black rubber seals which are working fine for now. The blue is still in the middle and top until a new set comes in. Maybe I need new covers or springs? I was going to use cork but I new I'd be popping the covers often with the new solid lifter conversion.

Post by fourthgear on May 2, 2007, 1:34pm

Do you have the washer under and between the spring and the middle seal? Just a thought .

Post by mtnspan on May 2, 2007, 9:24pm

I'm with Skip, CORK! I've tried the blue silcone seals twice and both times they leaked. I should have learned my lesson the first time but I'm stubborn because I've read good things about them. But they don't work for me so it's cork from now on. I rub a little white grease on them when installing, seams to keep them soft longer.

Post by lockdoc on May 6, 2007, 4:47am
''fourthgear wrote:
Do you have the washer under and between the spring and the middle seal? Just a thought .''
From the bottom up on the upper tube I have the seal, washer, spring, retainer.

Post by chucklbones on May 7, 2007, 1:55pm

het now been using blue ones on both my bikes 82 chulb and 56 pan no problems

Posts: 3337
Joined: Sat Jun 26, 2010 1:54 pm
Bikes: 1958flh 1969sporty,had a knuckle but sold back to original owner
Location: NEW JERSEY
Has thanked: 195 times
Been thanked: 264 times

Re: What pushrod seals NOT to use.


Post by 58flh » Sat Aug 27, 2011 1:01 pm

58flh-------- CORK-ONLY! all the way up the tubes! I tried all that Blue & Black-Green pink or whatever---I to run solids-make my adj. no problems! I by a new set every 3yrs. if I need or not! I have had the same problems with other/customer bikes & tried to tell,em the fakes are no good, sure enough one by one were made into cork believers. If a motor with corks sits for awhile not run---- the corks get hard& crispy! If your bikes been sitting 2yrs. for whatever reason buy new corks! for $2bucks all misery is gone! Remember if there is a flaw in your tubes or lifter-blocks cork will form to it & seal better than anything else. Theres a reason H.D. put them in the first place!. Just had to say my peace from 25yrs. of exp.--------58flh

Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 9:07 pm
Bikes: Past Sport 74, Pan 48,
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: What pushrod seals NOT to use.


Post by nicholas_t » Sun Jun 24, 2012 2:39 pm

Hey ! They were made for Cork, why would you use anything but ? Then again I do like Blue, are the an O-Ring as in dia. or is the material they are made from square. I would think at the retainer an O-Ring would work well under the washer-spring-cap-retainer. Hope I have that right? Anyway; the lower tube is on a bit of a taper and would wedge in place making a good seal. B U T ! I'll stick with my cork gaskets and as they age the seal improves. Just like the crank seal, if it works don't change it, my Pan is or was a 48, and for a seal they use spirl groove, (much like a thread) and as long as it is spinning it pushes the oil back to the sump or case.. Opp's just a bit off trak

Post Reply

Return to “Motor”