59 pan compesating sprocket question

Panacea
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Re: 59 pan compesating sprocket question

#16

Post by Panacea »

Dave, the new harleys have now gotten the rubber buffers in the rear wheel as well...Mike



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Re: 59 pan compesating sprocket question

#17

Post by 58flh »

Cotton is 100% correct on his answer,speaking from exp. a compensating sprocket for a street driven machine is a must!!! sure if removed you save rotating weight (known as inertia)---but your bottomend,crank,crankpin,&bearings will take a beating! also if high r.p.m. holeshots is your thing-say by to those beautiful original lefthand case!!! THATS A GIVEN! The comp. sprocket is a must for street-driven bikes!!...(I also wanted to add before you start shimming the works,--check for proper spring length & pressure when assem.( you can use the same pressure tester they use for valve-springs in headshops where they service cars.)Then you can dial-in perfectly! Good-Luck 58flh----I tell you this cause ive been there done that a few 100 times.(both street & full race applications)

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Re: 59 pan compesating sprocket question

#18

Post by George Greer »

Could someone point me in the right direction on this?

I did find out some information here about they work.

Does it need a special tool to install on the sprocket shaft?

Sorry to be late on this thread.

George

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Re: 59 pan compesating sprocket question

#19

Post by George Greer »

Never mind.........

Got some reading done,

Tool:

Sprocket Shaft Nut Wrench. Part number 94557-55

George

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Re: 59 pan compesating sprocket question

#20

Post by Panacea »

George, I suggest not using an air wrench to tighten the compensator nut. I could be wrong but it seems like it could do some major damage to the flywheels. I've become extra cautious with my 64, she made it this far without getting screwed up!...Mike

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Re: 59 pan compesating sprocket question

#21

Post by George Greer »

Thanks..

In my work as a helicopter mechanic,

The only air tools allowed, is for sheetmetal.........rivet guns, drills ect.........heck, I don't even own a impact ratchet.

Don't ever expect to use one either.

Manual hand tools are all I use.

George

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Re: 59 pan compesating sprocket question

#22

Post by Panhead Joey »

Hello Guys,

I'm new to this thread and appreciate the tips you guys have been sharing. I just purchased a 1959 FL and wanted to know torque specs when tightening the compensating nut screw and the torque when tightening down the clutch hub nut?

Thanks
Panhead Joey

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Re: 59 pan compesating sprocket question

#23

Post by Panacea »

Hi Joey, the sprocket spins counter clockwise so I wouldn't think a cheater bar would be needed for tightening, I don't know why the hub nut is left handed, maybe someone else has a reason for it...Mike

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Re: 59 pan compesating sprocket question

#24

Post by Panhead Joey »

Hi Mike,

I wanted to upgrade my clutch hub so in doing so I had to remove my compensating sprocket nut and clutch hub nut. My Clymers manual does not specify when putting it back all together how much torque is required to tightened back down the clutch hub nut and compensating sprocket nut. Hopefully, someone might have the answers for me anyway thanks for reply.

Cheers,

Joey

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Re: 59 pan compesating sprocket question

#25

Post by Bigincher »

There are no specs for torque values for panheads.
But there is a chart for shovelhead, and I believe a copy of it is here somewhere in the Knowledge Base.

viewtopic.php?f=103&t=1073




.

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Re: 59 pan compesating sprocket question

#26

Post by Panhead Joey »

Hi Bigincher,

That's great definitely a big help in the right direction gives me somewhat of an idea appreciate your help.

Thanks,

Joey

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Re: 59 pan compesating sprocket question

#27

Post by Bigincher »

Panhead Joey wrote:Hi Bigincher,

That's great definitely a big help in the right direction gives me somewhat of an idea appreciate your help.

Thanks,

Joey
I would call it a "guideline". I seldom use a torque wrench, if I do it's to prevent over-tightening.
Use your own judgment on your own bike. :wink:

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Re: 59 pan compesating sprocket question

#28

Post by Panhead Joey »

Definitely makes sense as a guide to by thank you!

Joey

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Re: 59 pan compesating sprocket question

#29

Post by 58flh »

If you dont have the tool/dont use a dull-chisel!--Use a 24-inch piece of .250 flatstock & make one-(check K-Base)--I used a exhaust hanger from a shortster!--The 2-tits line-up perfectly ,just have to quench them & Done.I got into quite a few that had Pipe wrench scars & shisel/hammer scars.Use the correct tool for taking apart/& installation.-----Respectfully---Richie

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Re: 59 pan compesating sprocket question

#30

Post by Bigincher »

Panacea wrote:Hi Joey, the sprocket spins counter clockwise so I wouldn't think a cheater bar would be needed for tightening, I don't know why the hub nut is left handed, maybe someone else has a reason for it...Mike
There are two reverse-thread nuts on a Harley, and they are both right there- the clutch hub nut and the transmission sprocket nut.
I have always surmised they are reverse thread because if they were standard thread, if they came loose, the direction the parts are spinning (CCW) would have a tendency to loosen them until they would fly off...!
With reverse threads, they would tend to 'self-tighten'.
That's the only thing that makes sense to me, anyway.....

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