Primary belt drive

Times Welding
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Re: Primary belt drive

#16

Post by Times Welding »

The only way you could adjust lateral spacing on a tapered shaft would be to machine a tapered sleeve. That would be quite tedious and a very thin sleeve would move the sprocket A LOT. If necessary, you'd have better luck machining the sprocket. That is only my opinion as a toolmaker as I only have a couple years experience fiddling with vintage bikes. I got lucky aligning my sprockets. I had to machine a thicker sprocket shaft spacer. That was easy as my '59 has a splined sprocket shaft. I also had to "twist" the trans a bit on its plate since the adnusting bolt pulls or pushes only on the right side. I then ran the bike with no primary cover to verify the belt was tracking dead center on the engine sprocket. Also , that "twisting" of the trans eliminated nearly all of the clutch basket walk. Good luck on your installation. I think after diligent alignment, you'll love the results.



Times Welding
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Re: Primary belt drive

#17

Post by Times Welding »

Times Welding wrote:I got lucky aligning my sprockets. I had to machine a thicker sprocket shaft spacer. That was easy as my '59 has a splined sprocket shaft. I also had to "twist" the trans a bit on its plate since the adnusting bolt pulls or pushes only on the right side.
I feel I should clarify what I meant by "twist"ing the trans. Since the adjusting bolt pushes and pulls on the right side of the trans only, the left side is not necessarily in the same place, front-to-rear, as the right. That is to say that the main shaft is not necessarily parallel to the engine sprocket shaft. I had to snug the left front transmission mounting stud nut with the other 3 nuts and the right side bolt loose. Then I pushed the right side of the trans forward about .005" with the adjusting bolt. This got the 2 shafts (primary sprockets) parallel to each other. Now, with the primary cover removed and the engine running, I could verify that the belt was running with the outside edge against the clutch basket (as BDL tech says it should) and tracking dead center on the engine sprocket. I was then also able to verify that the clutch basket walk had been eliminated. Hope this helps.

caschnd1
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Re: Primary belt drive

#18

Post by caschnd1 »

I use an adjuster that allows ne to apply a little "twist". It makes it easy to get the transmission input shaft aligned with the motor output shaft. As you noted, once you get it spot on, clutch basket walking is a non-issue.

-Craig

Image

Times Welding
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Re: Primary belt drive

#19

Post by Times Welding »

caschnd1 wrote:I use an adjuster that allows ne to apply a little "twist". It makes it easy to get the transmission input shaft aligned with the motor output shaft. As you noted, once you get it spot on, clutch basket walking is a non-issue.

-Craig

Image
Craig, great idea and thanks for the photo. Is that an item I can purchase, or do I need to fabricate my own?

caschnd1
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Re: Primary belt drive

#20

Post by caschnd1 »

You can purchase that from any number of vendors, Vtwin Mfg, J&P, etc.

-Craig

Times Welding
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Re: Primary belt drive

#21

Post by Times Welding »

Gentlemen,
I've put a few hundred miles on the belt drive thus far and, I must say, I really like it. I have a breather related question for you all. I removed the stock breather bolt (my bike is a '59) and purchased a '57 and earlier breather bolt. I cut the tube off of the breather, rotated it 90 degrees and welded it back on. When installed, this points the breather tube straight down. My question is: should I install an automotive type PCV valve (check valve) and some sort of filter on the tube? I would think the PCV would just assist the breather gear in doing it's job and the filter would help keep the dust out and possibly muffle the breather a bit.

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