65 Pull rod length

Post Reply
Posts: 196
Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 12:41 am
Bikes: 55FLE, 65FL
Location: Northern Rivers NSW, Australia
Has thanked: 13 times
Been thanked: 3 times

65 Pull rod length


Post by old1955 » Wed Sep 23, 2009 11:17 am

The manual calls it a "pull rod" . This is the rod that connects the mouse trap to the clutch actuating arm.
Could someone near their 65FL give me a length measurement on it. I need to get one for mine, and have been given a choice
of three different lengths 18", 18 1/2" and 21 3/8". I checked the 59 it's has the longest one, so I think it may be the 18 1/2" as the
clutch release arm (& actuating) on a 65 seems to bend at the tip toward the front of the bike, I think that is to clear the start section on the chain case.

Many thanks

Posts: 3
Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2015 11:56 pm
Bikes: 1989 zx10 2002 spec. const. panhead
Location: modesto ca.

Re: 65 Pull rod length


Post by 57PANHEADFL » Fri Nov 06, 2015 10:03 am

j@p cycle vintage book page 87 shows a early and late 65 52 to 65 e. 22 in. /65 l. to 67 20 in. hope this helps you :?:

Posts: 3337
Joined: Sat Jun 26, 2010 1:54 pm
Bikes: 1958flh 1969sporty,had a knuckle but sold back to original owner
Location: NEW JERSEY
Has thanked: 195 times
Been thanked: 264 times

Re: 65 Pull rod length


Post by 58flh » Sat Nov 07, 2015 2:07 pm

PETE-----Personally I am not running a MT!---But I have ADJ. quite a few!---Once you have the correct PULL-ROD to arm of trans/I have found that even with all correct parts THE Mouse trap MUST move EASILY-(no bind, no scrape,No wierd noise like a spring being of not correct size.)--Olny then you will be able to ADJ. the MT PROPERLY!.A word of truth----Theres a huge difference between OEM MTs & Aftermarket ones!.The Factory ones Are way better-(Im sure you know that as it applies to all aftermarket parts!).Once you are Good on the ADJ.--(Memory is telling me about a 1/8th--inch window with OEM parts.)Shifting will fall into selected gear when Riding!.--Make sure the DETENTE on the trans is smooth & has good spring tension!/As it is all part of a ststem./your MT can be right-on -but if the Detente is sticking or HARD to compress,You will fight the knob to get a gear.Remember to fold the ears on the washer when checking the Detente.A MT works good when its properly ADJ.!.----If your mixing OEM & Aftermarket parts---You have to Dry-Hump each component & watch for its operation.I ALWAYS had to massage Aftermarket MTs to work!///They would work ,but I know that After a season Ill be checking it again!---Which leaves a blessing in disguise as YOU will see the Marks etched where there is rubbibg or twisting happening.Read all in the K-BASE & HAVE a FACTORY MANUAL!--Check under documentation in K-Base for 1965-E-Glide Factory manual incase you dont have one.Hope this sheds a little light for you///& Listen to the guys that are Using one daily!/John, Rubone ,& about a dozen more Can Explain better then I can!--I just gave you my EXP.-with setting up a MT.------Respectfully--RICHIE

Posts: 2789
Joined: Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:10 pm
Bikes: 1941/59 EL
1952 FL
1977 FLH
1994 Fatboy
Has thanked: 21 times
Been thanked: 103 times

Re: 65 Pull rod length


Post by Bigincher » Sat Nov 07, 2015 7:24 pm

With all due respect, Jay-Pee is the last place I would look for fitment of parts. Notice their lengths don't even match the ones that are available to Pete, the original poster of the question on rod length.
I don't have a '65, so I can't measure the rod, sorry.

Post Reply

Return to “Clutch”