Transmission plate

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49bones
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Transmission plate

#1

Post by 49bones »

Guys can anyone confirm with me, how do i identify my tranny mounting plate as a knuck/panhead plate or a shovel plate? Are they any different? I am having a nightmare getting a primary BDL belt lined up and i am starting to think it might be more than just a shimming issue?



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Re: Transmission plate

#2

Post by Bigincher »

This should help.
It's from Palmer's new book.
transplate.jpg
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Tattoo
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Re: Transmission plate

#3

Post by Tattoo »

The mount plate isn't your problem.... That's just the way it is.... You have to shim, grind what ever it takes to make them fit right......

49bones
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Re: Transmission plate

#4

Post by 49bones »

Tattoo wrote:The mount plate isn't your problem.... That's just the way it is.... You have to shim, grind what ever it takes to make them fit right......

I know Tattoo ay, I'm just looking at other things. I am trying to do some shimming on the tranny, Richie was telling me about this, got it to turn over by hand and not collide with the motor, then when i kicked it it wandered inwards again.

I think this is going to call for some more work than shimming, but I'm gonna head back out and give it some more goes.

Trying my best to get it run up without the pulley guide discs in place if possible, hopefully i can get it super close, but never done anything like this before, i don't know if I'm even shimming it right. Hopefully if i keep putting in the time i'll get there! And thanks for the image as well mate thats real helpful.

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Re: Transmission plate

#5

Post by Tattoo »

Sometimes you need to open the holes where the plate mounts to the frame just a little. So you can twist the trans to get it to run straight. But that's just one thing that helps....... A little.....

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Re: Transmission plate

#6

Post by RUBONE »

If you have ever adjusted a belt sander or a band saw you know exactly what is needed to come into alignment. Tattoo mentions a good point.

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Re: Transmission plate

#7

Post by 58flh »

Bones---Rubones explanation is very good!---Remember if your hub is walking-Its going to throw you off every time you pull the clutch or start it for that matter.Make sure your hub is in GOOD Working cond./Take your 5th bolt out under the kicker & loosen the other 4.Fire the bike & push pull on the kicker & watch the belt track/This is essentially just like a beltsander.Find where she runs best-& pull the clutch see what happens.If it don't rub the front pulley stop on end --Try putting a washer where the space was on the trans when it tracked best.Start it again-& if good /Now you can shim the trans where need be.This may take a few tries to get it right!.Once dialed in you can make shims or If you have a collection of 1-inch washers Try them-(bigger is better to spread the load when bolts are tightened!--Personally its best to MAKE YOUR OWN Shims--You can start by getting some starter shims for early chevy/ They make nice shims & it will be clean & done correctly--Also you can use beercan shims--Easy to cut & you can stack a few without any headache!.BUT IF THE BASKET IS a WALKER/Your attempts are futile.(Make the basket not walk & Adj. is easy).----Remember that kicking the mill over & not running it is not the same!-You must start the bike to see true-tracking of belt.--Respectfully---RICHIE

jed
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Re: Transmission plate

#8

Post by jed »

I have a question I would like to ask here instead of making a new post for it. I was running a BDL drive (1 1/2"---11mm) on a spline shaft '60 motor I recently had rebuilt. When the front (31 tooth) pulley goes back on using both belt guide plates, what is to keep the inner guide from rubbing or even causing the pulley to get bound up on the sprocket shaft bearing retainer when the pulley gets torqued down? Even if the inner belt guide is not used, what keeps the pulley from getting too close to the motor? Is it slightly tapered or something so that it stops at a certain point? ...and...should the pulley nut always be tightened up with an impact wrench...or no? I'm not at this point yet but I am wondering. Thanks in advance.

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Re: Transmission plate

#9

Post by 58flh »

JED---Do not use a impact gun to tighten!--Use a long bar/& tighten it to spec.----Taking it off,yes a gun will work depending on model of bike.Assembly you use your hands & Make it to tourque-spec.//You should also use a Bar for trans sprocket & Hub nuts!.Again when taking apart its ok to use a gun.-But When putting back together Use the T-wrench.---Respectfully---Richie

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Re: Transmission plate

#10

Post by jed »

Thanks Richie...spec is 80-100 lbs if I recall correctly. Looked it up the other day. Guess I'm not going to worry too much about my other question. I have everything just like I removed, so it's gotta go back together right. Thanks again.

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Re: Transmission plate

#11

Post by 49bones »

After putting a new clutch hub on the bike and getting that side of things all sorted, i have tried again to fit the BDL kit back on and I'm still 1/2 inch out on this alignment.

Not sure how to tackle this.

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Re: Transmission plate

#12

Post by Tattoo »

49bones wrote:After putting a new clutch hub on the bike and getting that side of things all sorted, i have tried again to fit the BDL kit back on and I'm still 1/2 inch out on this alignment.

Not sure how to tackle this.
It sounds like you need to change the main shaft in the trans to the correct one....

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Re: Transmission plate

#13

Post by 49bones »

Is it possible thats where I'm losing this, i have stared at this thing for hours drinking tea and still nothing.

I have checked the plate, i have checked the positioning, as many pictures as possible online etc, its too square to be off centre I'm sure of it. :mrgreen:

I know it will need shimming but i want to shim my motor and top mount anyway as i think this is all just bolted in without much care....

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

docmel
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Re: Transmission plate

#14

Post by docmel »

I did a build with a evo big twin in a softail frame using an old ratchet (no electric start) four speed w/1.5" open belt. The offset was about 1/2" to 3/4". I needed a 4 speed in a softail frame tranny mounting plate to line it up. Dont know it this helps or not. I ran that stock evo BT with that open 1.5" bely everywhere.

49bones
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Re: Transmission plate

#15

Post by 49bones »

docmel wrote:I did a build with a evo big twin in a softail frame using an old ratchet (no electric start) four speed w/1.5" open belt. The offset was about 1/2" to 3/4". I needed a 4 speed in a softail frame tranny mounting plate to line it up. Dont know it this helps or not. I ran that stock evo BT with that open 1.5" bely everywhere.

Yeah i have this all back together again now. I can see that something is not right, I'm going to have the inside of the BDL pulley taken down about 2mm just for peace of mind, i wanna get it perfect if i can

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